Creek Stewart Survival Shotgun Video

Nearing Completion

Here is the current AR build - Bushmaster lower, VLTOR MUR-1 upper, 1/9 mil-spec barrel and mil-spec bolt-carrier group, Troy VTAC 13" floating hand guard, Magpul ACS stock, Magpul MBUS fixed sights, Leatherwood CMR 1-4x24 scope. I have two 20-rd and two 30-rd Magpul Pmags to go with it. Not too shabby.

AR Build, Optics Update

Sighting in the kitchen floor reveals the illuminated horseshoe reticule.

I chose to remove the offset reflex sight for two reasons. First, the Leatherwood CMR that I mounted works fantastically. I am really pleased with the quality and usability of this optic. I can easily acquire a target with both eyes open just like with the red dot, and even at 4X this is not discombobulating. The second reason is that the offset adds weight without benefit. The idea is that I could rapidly transition to CQB, but that would require removing the lens covers, turning it on, etc. The Leatherwood, on the other hand, functions even better as a reflex sight, with slightly less "rim" blocking the view. The only downside to the scope is that the green illuminated reticule doesn't get nearly as bright as the Bushnell. In full sun, it is basically just a regular sighting tool. However, the interior shot (above) inside with the sun shining and all lights on shows up just fine, so I think this trade off is worth it. Also, the weapon is less bulky and stores quite a bit more easily now as well.

AR Build, Optics

So far, the AR build is coming along nicely. However, it hasn't got any sights yet, a rather necessary component for a rifle. The choice of optics for ARs is staggering. Ignoring for a moment the different brands, there are at least three major different types of sighting devices: scopes, reflex sights, and fixed sights. Each of these major types have all kinds of options and variations.

This build is for survival, including use in the wilderness, so the foundational optic for this weapon is good old fixed sights. However, I want other optics as well (more on that in a bit), so I chose flip up sights. I settled on Magpul MBUS sights. They are very sturdy and inexpensive - I got a front and rear set for less than $90. They also come in a handsome FDE that complements my weapon's color scheme. My only disappointment is that it is darned hard to see the front sight post, especially in low light situations. I sort of wish I had gotten a tritium front sight post.

While this gun will certainly have to hold its own in CQB (close quarters combat), it also needs to suffice for medium range marksmanship and longer range hunting scenarios. For this purpose, I selected a 1-4x24 scope. If you are unaware, the 1-4 designation represents magnification power. This scope goes from a magnification factor of 1 (e.g., no magnification) to a magnification factor of four (e.g., a target at 400 yards will look like it is at 100 yards). The 24 designation is the diameter of the aperture lens in millimeters. This scope allows rapid zero-magnification target acquisition, and enough magnification to accurately hit at the edge of this weapon's range (the barrel is a 1-9 twist, limiting loads to 62 grains, and realistic effective range to maybe 300 yards). These kinds of scopes are also very light, which is a bonus. In the end, I narrowed my search to two weapons: the Super Sniper MRAD and the Leatherwood (by Hi-Lux) CMR. Both scopes have illuminated reticules, but the Super Sniper has several advantages: fully submersible, 1-6 power magnification, and first focal plane illuminated donut reticule. However, the Leatherwood has advantages of its own: it is significantly lighter than the SS (17.7 vs. 24.4 oz.), significantly cheaper ($330 with SS SALT mount, vs. $999 sans mount), and has flip-up lens covers. It also has mil-dot ranging marks on the lens, although only the center reticule is illuminated. I chose the Leatherwood on the strength of its value and weight advantage. The lens caps were also important to me - I have gotten sap on my lenses before, and that is no picnic. The mounting bracket uses two thumb-screws, and can be rapidly removed. This is important, because in a bugout scenario, I am very likely to detach my optic and store separately.

The final optic I mounted is a 1 O'clock offset with a reflex sight. This allows extremely rapid transition from magnified or backup sights to reflex sighting. The optic I chose is a Bushnell TRS-25. This is essentially an Aimpoint Micro clone. Again, the $80 price-point made it attractive, and the enclosed housing seems sturdier than some of the open pane sights. It is also small and light weight, so it stays out of the way. It is a bit redundant, so I'm not sure if I will keep it on there. I will have to try all the optics out together in some extensive scenario shooting. In the end, I chose to deploy all three major sighting types. Go figure.

AR Build, Handguard

The choice for hand-guard is a difficult one. I don't think there is any right answer, but I will explain my choice and how I arrived at it. My criteria for selecting a hand guard are as follows:
1) Light weight. I may have to hump this weapon all day.
2) No front sight gas block. I want to run optics, and I don't want to drop my rifle into a gorge and knock the gas-block off by accident.
3) QED, I need a guard that covers and protects the gas-block.
4) I don't want a quad rail. All those sharp edges and extra weight are annoying.
5) Decent length and ventilation. I don't want to burn my leg by accident.
6) Inexpensive. Or at least reasonably so.

In light of these requirements, I selected Troy's VTAC Alpha Rail 13". This hand-guard is exceptionally light and remarkably sturdy - and at less than $200 it is a bargain. The 13" length protects the gas-block from getting knocked around, and provides superior heat dissipation and barrel protection. It also looks pretty damn handsome.

I chose to affix a Magpul AFG2. I'm not sure if I will keep this. The benefit is an ergonomic platform with superior positive grip. The negative is that I can't just grab the hand-guard and start shooting. So, if I am deploying the weapon from a sling, the AFG might be a liability. In a battle situation, however, it is a significant ergonomic improvement.

The weapon is shaping up quite nicely.

AR Build, Buffer Tube and Stock

I chose to replace my buttstock and lower receiver extension tube. The lower receiver extension tube, commonly known as the buffer tube, comes in two sizes: mil-spec and commercial-spec. As far as I know, all commercially available Bushmaster's use the commercial tube. Either will serve you fine, but I chose to swap mine out for a mil-spec tube, as I want my entire rifle build to be mil-spec. There is a detent spring concealed beneath the rear plate, and I have yet to find a way of removing the castle nut without destroying this spring, so I went ahead and ordered a new spring set while I was at it. Although either buffer tube is fine, they are different sizes, so you have to know which size you have before ordering a new buttstock.

First, the standard buttstock has to be removed. This is accomplished by sliding it all the way to the rear, and then lifting up on the lever. It can now be slid off the end of the tube. You can now tell if you have a commercial or mil-spec tube. The commercial tube has a slightly slanted rear, while the mil-spec has a vertical rear. Also, the threads on a commercial tube are at the same level as the tube, while on a mil-spec tube the threads stick up higher than the tube. This is actually why commercial tubes exist. The military specifications call for a tube that is threaded, and then the body of the tube is milled down below the thread level. Obviously, this is expensive. The commercial tube begins with the same radius as the mil-spec tube, and gets the same threads, but the tube is never milled down. Instead, the buttstock comes with a larger aperture. This is significantly less expensive to manufacture. The mil-spec tube is a bit stronger and a bit lighter, but you are unlikely to notice a difference. Again, I only chose a mil-spec tube because I wanted an all mil-spec build. This sort of simplifies things.

Once the buttstock is removed, the castle nut can be loosened. Hold the rear plate in place while you do this, as it is spring loaded. If you do it right, you can even get the detent spring out without wrecking it. I have generally been unsuccessful in this regard. Loosen the castle nut as far as it will go, and then gentle remove pressure on the back plate. The detent spring should come out, along with the (very tiny) detent. I recommend putting these in a ziploc ASAP. The next step is to remove the tube. This is done easily by unscrewing it, but there is a stop pin under the lip of the tube which is under spring pressure. Be sure to hold this in place with a finger while loosening the tube.

The new buffer tube is installed in the reverse. The most important thing to be careful of is the new detent spring. Be careful not to crush it. Once the new buffer tube is installed, it is time to add the buttstock.

For this build, I chose the Magpul ACS buttstock. I chose this for three reasons.
1) Magpul makes some tough, high quality products.
2) Superior cheek-weld.
3) Storage space.
4) much cheaper than the UBR stock.

Again, this is a "real life" build, and the ACS retails for around $100. The UBR is upward of $250. There are other storage compartment stocks out there, such as Troy's nifty Battle Ax stock. This stock has almost endless storage space, but is heavier, more expensive, and in my opinion uglier. Also, I don't want to carry a whole bunch of gear in my carbine, just survival basics. Weight is important.

The ACS is a straight forward install, but the polymer "bullets" provided don't work very well for raising the pressure plug. I used a slim allen wrench. The final product is quite handsome.

AR Build, Upper Reciever

My choice for upper receiver is the VLTOR MUR-1A. I chose this upper receiver for the following reasons:
1) The stock bushmaster upper has a built-hand-guard, which makes mounting optics darned near impossible.
2) I wanted an all mil-spec build both for toughness and parts compatibility.
3) The MUR-1 is machined from forged billet, and has extra material and bracing, making it arguably the strongest upper on the market.

I had to take the receiver to a gunsmith to swap the barrel over, so while I am waiting on my lower receiver parts, I went ahead and got that done. In the next post I will show you my choice of hand-guard and explain the logic behind my choice.

Quote of the Week

  "The choice is not between death and life. The choice is between honor and dishonor."

Redundancy

There are two things you must balance when preparing for wilderness survival. The first is mobility, the second is, well, preparedness. That's why they call it "prepping". There are many good blogs out there on everything from bush-craft to surviving a zombie apocalypse (it's called Walmart folks, but that's another post altogether). As you read up on preparing for survival, you will come to value things like bottles of bleach and soft-splints. The question quickly becomes, how much? I mean, if your stash looks like the back room at Cabelas, it probably isn't mobile enough to do you much good. So, of course, you probably have things pared down; maybe you even have that one bugout bag that will serve you if everything else goes to total shit. Good. But. You see, some redundancy is good. There are a few items that are absolutely essential, and having extras is good. Fire starting implements are always good. So are water tabs. This is why I recommend weapons with storage space. You can always stash an extra flint or tinder.

A Good Snubby

The snub-nosed revolver will always have a place in the world of survival. The snub nosed revolver exists for one purpose: to kill at close range. Granted, it can be used for other purposes, but not nearly as well as other handgun options. The snubby has the benefit of being compact, reliable, and easy to maintain. They are easy to conceal or throw into a bag, and make a great snake gun, just in case, on that next outdoor trip. And frankly, they are just plain fun. They are also inexpensive, like this .38, which can be had for about $200.

The Other Survival Rifle

It's not as sexy as, say, an LM308MWSE, but if you are ever in a survival situation there is one weapon you can count on day after day to supply your small game needs, provide decent defense, and have nearly endless ammo all wrapped up in a 5lb. package. I am talking, of course, about the Ruger 1022. The rifle that many of us cut our teeth on makes an excellent survival gun. Overall length is 37", weight is a low 5lb., and the magazine holds 10 rounds. It is relatively quiet, and is not a big target for theft or harassment. In any mass survival scenarios, the big game gets dropped first, making a rifle like this one quite useful.

Glock 23 vs. S&W M&P 9c

Today I am comparing two of my handguns, in two different calibers. Handgun comparisons only work if the author makes it clear what matters to him or her. After all, someone carrying concealed in New Orleans has a different set of ideas from the person carrying in a tactical thigh rig in Afghanistan.

So let me explain the parameters of this comparison: I am comparing for the specific use of a survival weapon - a wilderness weapon. That is the direction of this blog, and that will be the direction of this comparison. As such, the most important qualities are as follows:
1) Reliable
2) Rugged
3) All around usability
4) Comfortable
The last category is the most subjective, and will vary by user.

Reliable - First, both of these weapons are rock-solid reliable. I have seen various tests, and they may have merit, but in my personal experience I have never had a mis-feed or stove-pipe with either weapon. They have eaten brass, aluminum, steel, FMJs and JHPs, with no problems. I did have one light load with the M&P which kept it from cycling, but that is an ammo issue, not a weapon issue. Obviously the Glock has the edge here, because it has been in service longer, but I suspect the M&P is every bit as reliable.

Rugged - Both are made of durable polymer and big chunks of steel. The Glock looks a little more sturdy, but I'm pretty sure you could park a truck on either one and it would come out firing. The Glock definitely has higher quality magazines, however, with a steel-inside-polymer design that looks like it could withstand a nuclear holocaust. On the other hand, even though the M&P mags are basically just steel with a polymer base-plate, they are still higher quality than almost any 1911 mag I've ever seen. However, the Glock does have a distinct advantage. This advantage is the simplicity of its parts and breakdown. Breaking down the Glock requires two quick motions, and results in a slide, barrel, spring, and frame. The M&P requires you to depress the sear before disassembly, which is a huge pain in the ass. You probably don't want to shove your finger in there, especially if it is a field strip, as you might get dirt in the chamber. To this end, S&W have provided a tool built into the backstrap that you can reach in there with. This requires removing the magazine, twisting out the tool, etc. And don't forget to put it back. The tool also holds the backstrap in place, so if you misplace it, you are in deep shit. Honestly, if I used this weapon in the wilderness I would use something else to depress the sear, as I would be too scared of losing the tool. Also, the Sig style breakdown is more difficult to accomplish than the Glock's takedown. Simplicity is king in the wilderness, and I think the Glock wins here.

Useability - The Glock also has an advantage in usability. The hollow backstrap of the Glock can be used to store implements - I suggest strike-anywhere matches - by utilizing a plug such as this one.
The M&P comes with three backstraps and two magazines, but frankly this is too much to keep up with. You will probably prefer the longer mag, and as a result will go out and buy a second one, forgetting all about the shorty (at least I did). As for the backstraps, once you select the one that fits, you will probably stash the others away. Certainly they spares will not have room in your bugout bag. All this to say that they are nice features, but they don't make the M&P customizable or adjustable in most wilderness scenarios. On the other hand, I highly recommend the 9mm round for most folks, to the point that I would suggest the 9c over the G23 for most shooters. I have several reasons for this recommendation. First, the .40 has more snap. It requires more practice and strength to control. On the other hand, my granny could fire a 9mm. Second, ammo for the 9mm is still the world standard, universally available, and doubles as a great barter tool. Finally, most shooters can re-acquire targets much more quickly with the 9mm.

Comfort - The first is the grip. The grip on the M&P is just too small. I have medium hands with longish fingers (I'm 6'1"), and even with the extended grip, my fingers are fighting for room. The Glock fits my hand almost perfectly in length and width. On the other hand, the M&P has an interchangeable backstrap to adjust the width to your hand. I suspect length will be the real issue with the c model. If you are considering the M&P, I suggest you look at the full size version. Conversely, people with meatier hands will find the Glock too short as well. I personally don't like the full size (17 and 22) models, as the finger bumps get in the way. I'm also uncomfortable with the grip angle. Again, these are personal preferences, and will change shooter to shooter. Second is the ability to carry and use. Both will carry well, all day and are light weight. The Glock has a negligible capacity advantage (13 vs. 12 rounds). The M&P I purchased has an external safety, but I would not recommend that. They just get in the way. I also dislike the M&P trigger - it feels spongy to me, with a long trigger pull. The Glock feels crisper, is solid metal, and I know exactly where the break is going to be.

Conclusion - The winner here seems to be the Glock, but while the ideas here might guide your own weapon selection, please do your own research for your own needs. Ironically, the most important metric is the most subjective, and that is which weapon fits you the best, gives you the most confidence, and can be deployed the most effectively by you - its owner and user.

What About The AK-47?

The AK is probably the most well-known and widely used weapon on the planet. It has one distinct advantage over the AR platform, which is that it is virtually indestructible. Throw it in the mud, run over it with a truck, drop it in the ocean - it will still probably fire. Then again, the AR is pretty damn reliable as well. The AK also has some disadvantages, not least of which is the increased weight and reduced range. However, this is a gun builder blog, and the truth is, with enough money anyone can modify the hell out of either of these platforms. Below is a series of thorough videos on the topic:

Grip Install Video

If you do choose to change out your grip, it will look something like this:

AR Build, Grip and Trigger Guard

Grip

The grip may be one of the more misunderstood parts of the AR. There are dozens of grips available, but what do they mean, and will you automatically be a bad-ass just because you spent an extra $30 on your build?

Grips serve two functions. The first is ergonomics, or control of the weapon. The grip has to fit your hand comfortably. The second is usability. Some grips include storage compartments or other features.

Here is my take on grips. Your AR is a tool, not an accessory. Make it work for you. The problem with commercially available grips is that they may or may not fit your hand. You have to consider width, depth, and contour. You need to be able to engage your weapon without thinking about rearranging your paw on the grip. For this reason, I have always taped my grips. Above is a picture of my grip taped up with "digital camo" patterned duct tape. Duct tape is a great choice for overall use, although it will deconstruct in hot climates, and turn brittle in extreme cold. Given my temperate location, a taped grip is far superior to a purchased grip. I am able to place the tape in exactly the right places to fit the contours of my own hand - it is truly a custom fit. Another benefit of tape is that if I have to wear gloves in the winter, it is no problem to change the tape to accommodate the new dynamic. Your AR is a tool; make it work for you.

However there are two good reasons to purchase an aftermarket grip. The first is the climate issue. I do not recommend using tape in desert environments. Extreme heat will cause the tape to melt. Alternatively, you could use boiler tape designed for high-temp environments, but I have found this tape to be a bit stiff for grip applications. Extreme cold will also affect tape, so you Northerners might want an aftermarket grip.

The second reason for an aftermarket grip is the availability of storage compartments in the bottom of the grip. This is actually a HUGE advantage for the wilderness weapon. My recommendation is that you purchase a grip with a storage compartment and promptly stock it with a few water purification tablets. This could very well save your life. Imagine being out in the woods, fending off zombies and cannibals, looking for some post-nuclear holocaust abomination mutant squirrel for dinner, and you trip and fall. Your gear is ripped off by a sharp rock, and hurtles over a cliff into a raging river. The laughing fates snap your ankle, and there you are, four miles from camp over rough terrain with just your rifle. Fever sets in, as your body fights to survive. Sweat drips from your brow, and a terrible thirst overpowers you. You find a small stream of water and quench your thirst in long, lusty gulps. Three agonizing days later you die of dysentery. Ok, maybe that is far fetched, but it is the same principle as a condom. I would rather have one and not need it than need one and not have it.

Trigger Guard

 There are two types of trigger guards available: regular, straight trigger guards, or slightly convex or "bowed" trigger guards.

As the picture above demonstrates, the convex style has more finger room. Your choice here is based upon a few different factors. The size of your fingers, obviously, whether you wear gloves, etc. If you live in a colder climate, I highly recommend the convex guard. On the other hand, I have had my gloves get caught between the bowed guard and the trigger before. For my personal build I am sticking with the straight guard. It works, and my hand fits fine, even gloved.

The grip and trigger guard are determining factors in whether you can engage your weapon rapidly, accurately, and comfortably. Choose wisely.

AR Build, Lower Receiver Group

If you are new to the AR platform, the rifle breaks down for cleaning into two main groups, the upper receiver and the lower receiver. To the left you can see my lower receiver group with the various parts marked.

Technically, the lower receiver "is" the weapon. Even though the upper receiver includes the bolt, chamber, and barrel, the lower contains the trigger mechanism, and as such is the part of the weapon that the United States has determined constitutes the weapon. As a result, any lower receivers purchased in the United States must go through an FFL dealer. My lower is the one that came with my Bushmaster, but you can buy just the lower if you want to build "from scratch".

Lower Receiver Group

 Let's deal with the actual lower receiver group (LRG) and trigger mechanism first. Probably any LRG will work for your build, but if you are working from scratch, I highly recommend using a reputable company, specifically one that supplies to the armed forces. BCM produces an excellent lower receiver group.

A word on Mil-spec. "Mil-spec" or "MIL STD" refers to "military specification", and means that the parts have been manufactured according to rigorous tolerances and subjected to treatment processes that ensure a very durable weapon. Durability is one of the most important aspects of building a wilderness weapon - you want one that you can fire, drop in the mud, fling over a canyon, fire some more, and then do it again tomorrow. However, true mil-spec lowers are not available for commercial sale in the United States, as they include a full-auto trigger mechanism, which is not legal for sale to civilians. There are three main choices when it comes to LRGs; first, the unit can be cast or machined from billet; second, there are various finishing choices; third, if you purchase one with the buffer tube already installed you have the option of mil-spec or commercial-spec tubes. We will talk about the buffer tube when we discuss the buttstock. For now, let's focus on the other two.

There is little practical difference between a cast lower and a billet lower; the real difference is in the manufacturing process. While billet is generally stronger, you must find out what alloy the receiver was machined from. The process is irrelevant if an inferior metal is used. At the same time, the manufacturer must use high quality processes or the difference again becomes irrelevant. Your best bet is to go with a reputable lower; leave the technical specs to the engineers. Again, any commercially available AR lower from mid-grade to high-end rifle manufacturers will suffice, but if you are building from scratch, I recommend a lower machined from 7075-T6 forgings.

The finish is an important aspect of the lower, as it will protect the weapon from oxidation and decay. Aluminum doesn't rust very easily, but it does rust. I recommend a hard-coat anodizing process, specifically the MIL-A-8625F Type 3, Class 2 coating demanded by the U.S. military. Some receivers come with a Teflon or similar coating. I am hesitant to recommend Teflon for two reasons. First, it can scratch off. Anodizing actually permeates the first few microns of the surface, rather than being a coating. It is magnetically "sucked in" to the metal. Teflon, on the other hand, can scratch off. Also, Teflon adds a very, very small thickness to the part, which can affect tolerances. That being said, I have never heard of anyone complaining on either account. In the end, the difference may be academic, but the first time you drop your weapon into a ravine and it takes you two days to recover, you might be thankful for all the durability you can get.

Get yourself a sturdy lower from a reputable company, and get building.

Caliber? We don't need no stinkin' caliber!

The ammo wars rage on. For those of you who might be new to this whole thing, there are endless debates about what round is the most effective.

The rifle of choice for the modern man is the AR platform. Alternately described as God's gift to shooters and uglier than a Mattel toy, the proliferation of accessories and ammunition make the 5.56 the rifle of choice for many. However, this blog isn't about being popular, and it damn sure isn't about accessorizing, so let's set the record straight.

You must select your weapon based upon your needs and your wilderness.

One reason I am building an AR in 5.56 caliber is my location - Kentucky hasn't got any big game or wide open spaces. Have you ever seen Daniel Boone national forest? A slingshot has a longer range than eye-sight in that jungle. But believe me when I say that the 5.56 is not for everyone.

[Editor's note: 5.56 refers to the caliber, in millimeters, of NATO spec ammunition. The 5.56 is the same dimensions as a Remington .223, but is significantly "hotter", or more powerful. If you buy a .223 weapon do NOT use 5.56 ammo, as you risk blowing yourself up. On the other hand, a 5.56 can easily fire the often cheaper .223 ammo.]

When selecting a wilderness rifle, please consider the following three factors:
1) Range. This is the most important, overlooked aspect of a wilderness rifle. Live in Montana? Well, you need a weapon with a 1,000 yard range. Seriously. Of course, that assumes you can use it at that range. The first two rules of gun club is that you don't talk about gun club, but the third rule is that you always train with your weapon to proficiency before the doo-doo hits the fan.

2) Target. Speaking of Montana, what will you be shooting at? A southerner probably has coyotes and smallish deer to worry about. Northerners have to worry about Elk, Bears, even Moose. Hint: never, ever shoot a bear with 5.56. You will only piss it off.

3) Portability. Yep. Chances are your ability to secure game - and not starve to death - will require lugging a weapon around, probably by hand and foot, possibly all day. Weight and weildiness are important!

Everybody's needs differ, but here are my caliber choices by region of the United States (note that I did not say rifle - each caliber has its own set of available rifle platforms):
 Southeast: 5.56. Light, fast, capable.
Southwest: 7.62 NATO (.308). More take-down power for some slightly larger animals, but available in light packages. In most cases the 5.56 will suffice, however, and it is lighter and less expensive.
Northwest: .338 Lupua. Long range, takedown power, flat shooting. Overkill? Maybe, but if that mad bear or bull moose is giving you the hairy eyeball, you might be glad for it. And if every time you see dinner it is 600 or more yards away, you will thank your lucky stars for selecting this caliber.
Northeast: .30-06. This is actually a great caliber for any area, as it has decent range and takedown, and comes in very ergonomic packages. The Northeast also has some large game, but not like Alaska. A .30-06 should be fine. It also passes some of the ridiculous anti-scary-looking-guns laws published up in those regions. Because, you know, an AR-15 is more dangerous than a Weatherby .460 magnum.

Best overall caliber? 7.62 NATO (.308), in my opinion. This round is available in the amazingly ergonomic and commonly available AR-10 configuration, the ammunition is relatively inexpensive, and it has the power to take down most medium-large game. At the same time, transitioning from a hunting use to tactical use is a no brainer with this platform. Some alternatives include the 6.5 Creedmore, 300 BLK, and 6.8 SPC. However, the availability of ammo for the .308 make it a great choice.

AR Build, Part 1

Behold my glorious AR! As you can see, I already have a 20-round P-Mag installed. More on that later. Let me explain this build. This AR build has three guiding principles:
1) Build for the Wilderness. This blog is not for "urban hunters". If you want tactical, look elsewhere. There are better blogs than this out there. But if you ever bug out, you might be surprised at how useless your $300 quad rail and $1,200 optics are.

2) Speaking of outrageous sums of money, the second guide for this build is Build on a Budget. I am actually building this AR, as I type (I mean, not literally, but you get the point). And you may be surprised to learn that I am not a millionaire with a gun-fetish. I have to buy groceries and balance a checkbook. The trick will be a reasonable build that doesn't compromise.

3) Build for Beginners. I'm certain that experienced builders and gun nuts will benefit from this blog, but I will do my best to avoid jargon and assumptions that would be unhelpful to new-comers. And if you are a new-comer, may I suggest that you make friends with a reputable gun smith? I know you can tear down and rebuild a WS6 in your sleep, but this isn't an automobile. It's a deadly weapon. Don't screw around.

Ok, so having set the ground rules, let me introduce you to my gun. My build is going to begin with a Bushmaster XM15-E2S. Why am I beginning with this gun? Because I own it, and I suspect that most builds begin with an already-owned AR platform. However, you don't have to start with a complete rifle.

As we go through this build, we will examine each piece with an eye toward wilderness use. We will sort through our options based upon price, and then get to building. We hope you enjoy the ride.

Welcome to Survival Gun Builder

There are plenty of good gun blogs out there, but it seems like most of them - especially the AR sites - are dominated by "tactical" applications. But what about after you bug out? What about guns for people who are "living off the land", those post-zombie-apocalypse demi-gods dedicated to truth, justice, and securing uncontaminated drinking water? Well, that's where this blog comes in. This blog is dedicated to those who want to build and explore guns for the wilderness, the bugout, and the off-the-grid experience. Welcome.